On initial spray, I am overwhelmed by how tart the opening is. I get a very sweet but sour cranberry mixed with orange and a very subtle underlying camphorus, peppery note. It smells like candy. It also makes me think of a madras cocktail only on the synthetic side and much sweeter, on the verge of being sickly even, but the sweet begins to die down fairly quickly and I’m actually glad for it. The top notes run relatively linear into the heart, which maintains the camphorus cranberry even once the orange has faded. Jasmine then begins to develop with a more natural sweetness as hints of patchouli waft in and out. The cedar is very faint in the final stages, as it is overall, pretty light with the base notes. It’s definitely more heavy in the top and the heart. But it is sort of a chameleon of the bunch. While all the notes are always there, the concentrations of the notes and longetivity change with the weather.
In arid weather it has zero lasting power but in the humidity it lasts for hours. Warm weather can make it a bit cloying too but the cold really tames the sweet. I see rainy wet fall/winter weather being the ideal time to wear this for the best effect.
This is not my most favorite from the Elixer Charnels collection but it definitely has its place, although I’ve been reading rumors of its discontinuation since the beginning of the summer and here it is now end of October. Even still, I get a craving for this frag when the weather is just right. My biggest complaint about this one is that I just wish I got a little more from it especially more woods. It IS supposed to be “torrid woods” afterall.
But overall it’s a really great fragrance and probably the most complex and multifaceted of the collection. It reminds me of Mitsouko in the way that it changes with each use. Don’t misunderstand me when I say that. They smell NOTHING alike but they behave the same, in that they are not consistant anytime you put them on. Depending on your chemistry at the time, what you ate, the season, temperature, humidity, even time of day, the different variables bring out a little something different from the perfume with each use. Chameleon like I said. But it’s one of the things that keeps me intrigued with this frag. But no matter how it changes on me I DO know that its beauty remains constant.
Top notes: Bergamot, Mandarin, Pink pepper, Rosemary
Heart notes: Orange blossom, Jasmine, Mallow
Base notes: Patchouli, White musk, Cedar