Crepe de Chine was released in 1925 at the Paris Art Deco Expo at the same time as Shalimar. It’s obvious who won that one lol. But that’s not to downplay Crepe because it’s a beautiful fragrance.
I received a dram of this vintage juice along with a few other vintage samples as a bonus with a bottle purchase I made a while back. I’d been putting off testing it because well, it’s vintage. What can I say that hasn’t already been said? Yeah, not much.
But as I was sorting my samples and decants I noticed the dram was almost empty even though I’d only opened it once. Turns out that teflon can act as a diffuser if its touching the juice and has a piece outside the cap so it had been evaorating out this whole time. Anyways when I opened the cap to fix it I ended up spilling the rest of the juice on my hands and on to the floor. Yay me. So now I’m writing this because I may never again get a chance to smell this perfume. It’s discontinued though there are still a few bottles on eBay.
If Mitsouko and Chanel No 5 had a love child, it would smell like Crepe de Chine. I’m almost tempted to go mix a few sprays of each. This also smells very much like vintage Miss Dior to me but only in the heart notes. It’s a very floral chypre but also very airy and a bit soapy with aldehydes. I’m almost certain Miss Dior was copying Crepe de Chine since Miss Dior was released more than 20 years after.
The main notes I get are aldehydes, oakmoss, jasmine, ylang, and musk. It’s much more mellow, less crisp than Miss Dior but side by side my nose becomes anosmic to them both as they smell so very similar but only in the heart. Once Crepe gets to the base it really falls flat into a slightly spicy musk. It also doesn’t seem to last very long, maybe a couple of hours.
If you are a chypre lover and especially a vintage lover this is definitely one to seek out, especially while there’s stock. Though my dram doesn’t specify the concentration I am almost certain this is the parfum. It’s dark and almost oily. Extraits tend to hold up better over time, so I always recommend them when seeking out vintages when possible.
Bottom line: I’m super glad I was able to add this fragrance experience to my perfumista repertoire as it is a name that comes up from time to time, but I won’t be rushing out to buy a bottle. While it’s a gorgeous floral chypre, I have a few bottles of Miss Dior in EdT and Extrait and these perfumes are so similar it would be redundant to own both. But for the vintage enthusiast this would definitely be a highly valued and historical piece to add to the wardrobe. ❤
Season: Spring/ Fall
Top notes: Bergamot, Aldehydes, Neroli, Basil, Peru Balsam
Heart notes: Jasmine, Gardenia, Ylang ylang, Rose, Lilac, Chamomile
Base notes: Oakmoss, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Vetiver, Benzoin, Vanilla, Musk