This is a gorgeous fragrance though I’m still not sure how I feel about the name since I don’t get any leather (cuir) from this perfume at all and also no patchouli as listed in the note pyramid. But regardless, as expected from Guerlains Exclusive L’Art et Matiere collection, it’s still a very wearable, unisex fragrance, leaning a bit more feminine, and also somewhat understated.
This is a fairly light vanilla with a generous amount of heliotrope; the cherry almond note is unmistakable. Not subtle but also not cloying, this perfume projects moderately and lasts 4-6 hours on skin and even longer on clothes.
There are two ways I can interpret the name of this frag; “cuir beluga” meaning white leather or “cuir beluga” meanig the finest of leather, as in the “beluga caviar” of leather. Beluga caviar, known for being a fine delicacy, consists of eggs aka “roe”, from the beluga sturgeon fish, and is ranked by the color of the eggs. These fish can live to be well over 100 years old. The younger fish have darker eggs. The older the fish, the lighter the eggs, the more delicate the flavor, and the more scarce. White beluga caviar or “almas caviar” that is taken from a 100+year old female can fetch over $35,000 per kilo so very exclusive and very expensive. Somehow I feel both interpretations are suitable to the idea behind the fragrance even though I don’t think the juice quite lives up to that name.
When I think of leather notes in perfumes, I think of Songe d’un Bois d’Ete and Tuscan Leather on the heavier side. I think of Shalimar and Putain des Palaces on the lighter side. I think of birch tar and sweat and a carnal masculinity, none of which I find in Cuir Beluga.
In Cuir Beluga I find a soft powdery, cherry almond vanilla on the brink of gourmand. I find a comforting sweet fragrance that sits close to the skin and smells of the finest luxury bath soap and body cream that one would find tediously arranged on the vanity in a world class pent house suite.
While I’m clearly not in agreement on the name of this perfume, one thing is for certain; it’s gorgeous and I must have it! ❤
Season: Fall/ Winter
Top: Aldehydes, Tangerine
Heart: Patchoili, Immortelle
Base: Vanilla, Amber, Suede, Heliotrope