This new release from the house of Guerlain has been getting polarizing reviews and lots of flak for making Angelina Jolie the face of their ad campaign. I’ll admit that I was in no real hurry to rush out and test it. Besides being spoiled by my collection of Guerlain exclusives, I just haven’t been blown away by ANY of their modern mass market releases. From Insolance and La Petite Robe Noir to Idylle, L’Instant, and the Aqua Allagorias with hundreds of flankers in between, none of them have ended up in my wardrobe nor even close to making it to my want list except the original La Petite Robe Noir which I bought online but ended up swapping it for a Black Orchid and Rive Gauche from a lovely Fragrantican because I couldn’t stand that Merachino cherry syrup note.
Guerlain is notorious for reusing their perfumes in various concentrations and renaming them, a la Metallica/Metalys/Reve de Lune or the more known affair of Guet Apens/Attrape Cœur/Royal Extrait/Vol de Nuit Evasion. Or how they diluted some frags and even passed them for exclusives. For example, they took L’ Heure Bleue, diluted the juice, changed the color, threw it in a Bee bottle and called it L’Huere d’Nuit while tripling the price. Same with Mayotte/Mahora and a few others.
Mon Guerlain, formerly Mon Exclusif,
is also a recycled perfume, however, they went down with the price this time and I can totally appreciate that! This is a vanilla and tonka bean bomb though the immediate top is a bit weird to me. Lavender is also a big player but it plays a big supporting role and is very mellow and not in your face at all.
I digress here I know, but I went on a lavender kick several years ago and bought half a pound of organic food grade lavender. I made cocktails, and teas, and scrubs. I even made lavender sugar cookies and while they were pretty and even pretty good tasting, they threw me over the edge and made me lavender sick! I couldn’t smell lavender again without getting nausea lol. Just like after a bad hangover. So I have avoided anything lavender until recently as it seems my tolerance is finally returning, though even still, a sniff of pure Lavender EO still makes my stomach churn.
Mon Guerlain has a fair amount of lavender but it doesn’t invoke any hard feelings (or nausea) in me at all and wears as a light and fresh vanilla with a drydown that recalls Cuir Beluga. It’s definitely a fresh Oriental but it’s not heavy and syrupy like they typically can be.
My biggest complaint is that it doesn’t seem to last very long with any real projection though I can still detect it as a skinscent after 6 hours. That’s actually good for many people though I like a bit more projection in my frags. But for the price, it’s something I can live with.
Guerlain wanted to go mainstream and they’ve succeded! And what better way than offering an Exclusives grade perfume at a consumer friendly cost. Because while it DOES smell more “mass market” vs “niche”, it still bears a more sophisticated accord that smells “very Guerlain”, though not in a “Guerlinade” fashion. And though it already was an exclusive in it’s previous incarnation as Mon Exclusif, I can actually see the juice fitting into the Elixer Charnels collection just fine. So that actually says a lot about the juice I think.
Bottom line: It’s good! And even though I already have a bottle of Mon Exclusif, I think I will still end up buying a bottle of Mon Guerlain and wear it instead, for collections sake lol. 🙂
Season: Appropriate all year round.
Top: Lavender, Bergamot
Heart: Iris, Jasmin
Base: Vanilla, Sandalwood,Tonka