O Hira Stephane Humbert Lucas 777

Though Fragrantica has this listed as straight up ambergris, this is really a labdanum and resin bomb. My last post was somewhat of a rant over these two notes inspired by finding the note pyramid for this fragrance on Fragrantica, what a joke lol.

So it’s all about amber here, but ambergris? I think not. I don’t really get any of that salty marine aroma though I’m sure it must be in there. It HAS to be, because this is incredibly expensive juice. A 50 ml bottle retails over $700 USD!!! Labdanum in itself is not a very expensive nor rare material at all so my only guess is that the price reflects the materials but this is just an assumption. Mr. Lucas could actually be pulling our leg here, bluffing the ambergris note since the actual notes were not divulged. I was actually surprised LuckyScent added it in as a free sample with my purchase to be honest since it costs so much lol.

What I detect most is honeyed labdanum, which is a balsam from the cistus plant, commonly called rock rose. This is dreamy labdanum though as the turpinoids and tar like qualities have been greatly smoothed out and sweetened. I pick up lots of benzoin which adds spicy cinnamon and vanilla nuances to the composition. There’s actually enough cinnamon that it could be its own note here.

This fragrance has a very leathery overall feel to it. It’s dirty but not cumin or civet dirty, but sweaty birch tar dirty. Brand new leather. It’s also a little boozy from honey. It smells like it should be sticky after being sprayed on skin, as concentrated labdanum tincture can be as well as honey. As a side note, at least honey can be washed off with water. Labdanum is not water soluble and if the absolute gets on skin it has to be dissolved with alcohol or some type of spirit but that’s the nature of resins and most balsams.

While I absolutely adore labdanum and this fragrance masterfully showcases the note as there’s no denying its beauty, there’s no way I could justify buying a full bottle since to me, it’s just a labdanum “soliflore” and I could easily mix one up myself from my collection of EOs and absolutes. Now don’t get me wrong, I’m not saying I could recreate this fragrance because I can’t or that my little tincture would be as nice as O’ Hira becauseit wouldn’t be. I don’t have all those materials readily available. I’m nota trained perfumer and I’m not THAT arrogant haha. What I AM saying though, is that I could very easily and cheaply tincture some cistus absolute that would satisfy any urge to wear a labdanum soliflore should one arise lol. And I’d still have my $700. Bottom line: yes it’s nice and the bottle is awesome but it’s not worth the asking price IMO. Next.

Season: Fall/Winter
Notes: Who really knows but definitely labdanum lol

Top 10 of 2017

It’s that time again. And goodness how time flies! It’s been a year since I posted my very first top 10 list so it’s time to re-evaluate my most reached for fragrances. Several have remained on the list while a few have been replaced. And while I still love all of my perfumes, I like to see how my tastes change over time. So without further ado, my top 10 most reached for perfumes over the last 12 months have been:

–Iris poudre
–Khol de Bahrein
–Encens Mythique
–Mon Precieux Nectar
–Liaisons Dangereuses
–Moscow
–Noir pour Femme
–Lipstick Rose
–Dans Tes Bras
–Neroli Outrenoir

Here’s last years top 10!

Here’s 2018 top 10!

Neroli Outrenoir Guerlain

I love the L’ Art et La Matiere collection so much I ordered this blindly, meaning I didn’t test it before buying. But I’m confident in this collection and as expected, Thierry Wasser, Guerlains perfumer/nose, once again delivered. I am really overjoyed too, because this fragrance is fantastic! 

This is a gourmand orange dreamsicle treat for the grownups! The primary notes I get are orange, tangerine, and a creamy spicey vanilla but with so much more depth from the added nuances of smokey incense, myrrhe, and tea.

“Neroli” is the young blossom from the bitter orange tree. “Outrenoir” translates from French literally as “unusual black” but the term “l’ultrenoir” was coined by French artist, Pierre Soulages, whose abstract paintings composed mainly in black, focus on the play of light on various shades of black within the piece. His intentional brush strokes emphasize direction and create movement as well as give a sense of depth. You can tell which strokes are layered over which. The areas of black paint that are more transparent, feathery, and “dry brushed” are matte therefore absorb all of the light but the more opaque areas of thicker paint have a glossier texture, thus reflecting light creating highlights on the black impasto. 

           Pierre Soulages  Untitled 1958

I completely understand why this fragrance was named as such: it’s a total dichotomy on the brink of oxymoron.  Neroli and orange blossoms are pure white flowers, while “outrenoir” means “strange black”. This isn’t just noir, it’s outre noir. So the name equates to a white flower “noir”. Perhaps a gothic white flower noir even. Not literally dark but mysteriously dark. The seemingly polar elements of the notes on one hand, speak of warmth of spring and summer with sunny orange blossoms, grapefruits, and tangerines. On the other hand they tell a more overcast story of a chilly fall and winter with the myrrh, smokey incense, thick oriental vanilla, and Earl Grey hot tea, but it works so very well. It’s delicious and I can see myself wearing it year round.

Neroli Outrenoir has been compared to the Aqua Allegoria Teazzurra, and while I’ve never tried it, Teazzurra has been compared to Les Voyages Olifactifs Tokyo, which I own, so I can say they share that exact same tea note. The dry downs of Toyko and Outrenoir are only similar on that tea note. Outrenoir is much sweeter and thicker with vanilla and myrrhe. Side by side, it makes Tokyo feel bitter, brittle, and tart. And while we have seen quite a few neroli perfumes released within the past few years, including the highly successful Neroli Portifino by Tom Ford which I adore, I still prefer the Outrenoir. But I am a Guerlainophile. 😉

I’m usually not so crazy about citrus dominate perfumes in general, which I find too fleeting, too squeaky clean, a bit boring, and really, only appropriate for Summer. I think of citrus as mostly top notes as the molecules are more volatile and quick to evaporate. Outrenoir is a much heavier than most citrus frags though, thicker, creamier, and lasts 12 hours strong. I’m not sure how Wasser did it but I can smell the neroli all the way into the base, which is an accomplishment in itself. Plus I can wear this year round which is a super win-win. 👍

This is a Guerlain exclusive which means it’s not readily available for testing and it comes with a pretty hefty price tag. But if you love citrus and vanilla, this is absolutely the best of the best, creme de la creme, though I do recommend seeking out a sample before purchase if possible.  But I adore it! My most successful blind buy this year! (So far, ha ;)❤

Season: Year round

Top: Bergamot, Petitgrain, Grapefruit, Lemon, Tangerine

Heart: Orange blossom, Tea, Smoke, Earthy notes, Neroli

Base: Ambrette (musk mallow), Oakmoss, Myrrh, Benzoin, Vanilla

Le Parfum du 68 Guerlain

I have found most, if not all, Guerlain Exclusives to be rather safe fragrances so at this point I feel pretty comfortable ordering them blind, knowing that they will be high quality and easy to wear perfumes no matter what. Parfum du 68 is no exception. I blind bought this going merely off the note pyramid and Fragrantica reviews.

This one is a bit elusive even to many “in the know” perfumistas. There is a mystery here because it is rather difficult to get samples of unless you are in range of an official Guerlain Boutique as their little satellite kiosks in many malls only carry their very mainstream offerings like Shalimar and Samara. Parfum du 68 is still in a niche and so is very intriguing. I couldn’t stand the mystery any longer so I bought it. It wasn’t exactly what I was expecting but it is a beautiful fragrance nonetheless.

This starts out, in my opinion, very masculine with a fresh herbal accord very reminiscent of, well…a classic cologne lol. The top has got an herbal citrusy feel to it but it’s still very heavy with tonka and a bit sweet so it also feels like an oriental. I’ve never tried the Cologne du 68 and have read that they are not related but I still can’t help but wonder. If I get an opportunity to try it though I will definitely take it. Once it dries down and settles, it becomes very unisex. The basic notes I can pick out is a thick spicy vanilla. There’s a bit of a smokeyness to it but it’s very light and while the note pyramid lists leather, I really don’t get any strong leather at all, maybe a very slight suede, but nothing major.

This is a mature sophisticated fragrance, very cosmopolitan, that I think many could appreciated. But being an exclusive I can also see how it could be perceived as underwhelming for such a cost. I don’t regret buying it and really enjoy wearing it occasionally though I think I’d usually prefer to smell this on a guy.

The juice itself is very potent, has great projection and lasts strong all day. One or two spritz is plenty. The bottle is the same as the Elixer Charnels only it doesn’t have the metal plate in the front. I unfortunately see this being discontinued at some point in the near future since it doesn’t seem to be very popular.

Season: Fall/ Winter

Notes: Immortelle, Spices, Benzoin, Leather, Incense, Tonka,

Cuir Amethyste Armani Prive

Cuir Amethyste is the perfect name for this fragrance! It most certainly is all about leather and violets!  And this juice wears beautifully.

While most Prives in the black bottles tend to feel very heavy and oily, CA feels much lighter even though the leather note is fairly strong. After drydown I start to get quite a bit of benzoin and vanilla that really sweetens up the birch, while the violet wafts in and out. The whole composition really rounds out in the heart and smells creamy and smooth.

This frag is very unisex and refined. It’s also a very sophisticated scent yet maintains a bit of a rugged edge. A bit of a paradox, I know. It lasts a very long time too. The Prive line does have a reputation for excellent longetivity though.

The projection is decent. Not quite as much as, say Rose d’Arabie, but I think this frag is much more modest in comparison. CA leaves a sillage that is both soft and strong at the same time, which I feel is the entire essence of this fragrance.

Season: Spring/Fall

Top notes: Bergamot, Coriander, Rose

Heart notes: Patchouli, Violet, Birch

Base notes: Vanilla, Benzoin, Labdanum

Rose Nacree du Desert Guerlain

 

I must admit, while this is a great Rose/Oud combo fragrance representing the highest quality and craftsmanship Guerlain has to offer, this is my least favorite of the Deserts d’ Orient collection. Don’t misunderstand, I don’t dislike it. I like it just fine. But I much prefer the other two from the collection.  I ordered it out of spite anyways, so that I may have the entire collection. I know. 😩

There is nothing remarkable or different about this fragrance other than the obvious quality and beautiful presentation. But at the end of the day, it’s still just another rose oud perfume. 

I must add, though, that the dry down at the very end IS very nice, heavenly even, and a bit different from the other ouds I have but it’s a very soft, sweet rosy skinscent and doesn’t represent the main experience of the heart.

The juice stays put a long time but that is something to be expected of oud and a perfume of this claiber and cost. The sillage is beautiful. The projection is moderate for an oud, which tend to be very strong and pungent.

Many other reviews claim this to smell like Midnight Oud by Juliette Has a Gun and I agree. They do smell very similar in that they are both Rose/Oud ‘light’. Diet Rose/Oud lol But when comparing them side by side there are obvious differences. JHaG frags always seem to have a syntheticness about them. Not that that’s a bad thing, just something about the houses offerings.

Guerlains, especially the exclusive lines, always smell much more organic and natural to me, and Rose Nacree is no exception. I make no claims as to what materials they use, but I would assume that many natural materials and the processes involved in extracting them would warrent higher costs, like rose absolutes and orris, since it requires aging. Obviously not all naturals. Lavender is relatively cheap, but I digress.

My favorite thing about this perfume is the presentation. I love the bottles’ gold design bib and the fact that you have an option of whether you want a splash or to use the spray. Also I think the color of the juice is beautiful!

While I can’t say that there’s anything profound about this perfume, it is a very nice and safe rose/oud perfume. It is of the highest quality, beautifully presented, and gives great longetivity and sillage for the cost. One spray will suffice, so you won’t run through the bottle too fast. But it is somewhat redundant in my wardrobe considering I already own Midnight Oud, Calligraphy Rose, Rose Anonyme, Rose d’Arabia, and Portrait of a Lady.  If I never added this to my collection, I certainly wouldn’t be heartbroken or missing anything very important.  In fact, I’m marking Rose Nacree as my last and final Rose/Oud perfume for now.  I just can’t justify buying any more in this genera at this time.

Season: Winter/Fall

Notes: Rose, Oud, Saffron, Benzoin, Patchouli

Portrait of a Lady Frederic Malle

 

I wasn’t at all impressed with POAL the first time I tried it.  I was at Barney’s in Las Vegas deciding between this and Lipstick Rose. I ended up going with the Lipstick Rose lol.

The first time I tested this, all I got was tons of sandlewood and smokey incense. It smelled kind of bitter and very dry. It left me wanting more rose, more rasberry, more amber.  I couldn’t, for the life of me, see what all the hype was about.  So I just dropped it, moved on.

A few months later on a trip back to Vegas, I went back to Barneys to purchase another bottle of my beloved Iris Poudre, which a good friend/perfumistahood mentor got me hooked on, and I received a little boxed sample of POAL with my purchase.

I didn’t give it another try until months later, after I sampled Hand in Hand by Ramon Monegal. It was the first time I was actually turned on by the scent of oud. And it was glorious!

I almost always test on my wrist, but for some reason, I tested the Monegal in the crease of my elbow and I found that to make ALL the difference in the development of Oud with my chemistry. My wrist is too dry and not as warm. Also, I live in a very humid climate and that makes a difference as well. I had originally tested POAL in the Nevada desert, on my wrist, no less.

So after the Hand in Hand incident, I decided to give POAL another try. This time testing it at home, in a humid climate, and on the crease of my elbow.

I pulled out the sample box from my stash, applied it, and was almost blown away. It developed so much differently than the first time, so much richer. I was flooded by all the notes and finally understood what all the fuss was about!

POAL is a powerhouse of a perfume. One cannot wear this timidly. On initial spray, I am blasted with sandlewood, incense, rose, and patchouli. A few minutes in after drydown, the rose really starts to dominate and the patchouli backs off, allowing the fruiter components to peek in.  The heart is very spicey, woody rose. I pick up the cloves and oud (I wonder why oud isn’t listed in the notes, because it’s definitely there).

This sillage beast lasts easily 18 hours and I can still smell the lovely musky base, sandlewood still going strong with hints of vanilla, into the next day.

This is a pricey frag, even for a collector, but it’s so worth it. One spray will last 2 days, so a bottle will last a very long time.  The quality and craftsmanship is evident.

I have a few rose/oud combo frags now but this one tops the list as the Queen of them all and is also the easiest to wear and most interesting I think.  I’m so glad I gave this one a second try because I love it!

Season: Fall/Winter

Top notes: Cinnamon, Clove, Rose, Rasberry, Black Currant

Heart notes: Sandlewood, Patchouli, Incense

Base notes: Amber, Benzoin, Musk

Purchase Portrait of a Lady Here